The Cameo -Carved or Molded?
By Jon Kreps
The cameo design is indeed a classic in the jewelry world but most of us are unaware just how “classic” the design truly is. Carved agate cameos date all the way back to 300 b.c. in ancient Greece. However, it was not until the Georgian era (1760-1850) that cameo’s once again started to become popular. With the rising of the middle class during the Industrial Revolution, jewelry actually become a popular adornment for the first time in the modern era and cameo’s were certainly one of the more popular styles. The popularity of the cameo really took off after the ostentatious coronation of Napoleon Bonaparte in France. During the ceremony, he wore a cameo decorated coronation crown that set off a buying frenzy throughout Europe. Fifty years later in England, Queen Victoria further popularized the cameo and even designed a few pieces herself.
The core element of a cameo is an elegant portrait of a women set upon a flat plaque. You can find this elegant piece across a wide variety of jewelry styles, including: earrings, necklaces, rings, bracelets, pendants, and even watches.
Although the cameo features a classic design, it can be made from a wide assortment of materials, including but not limited to: abalone, wood, bone, coral, ivory, agate, plastic, varying shell types, glass, and layered hard stone. The value is often determined in large part by the material used to make the piece. This is why it is very important to know what to look for when buying a cameo based upon value.
There are two basic varieties of cameo on the market today: carved and molded. In general, the carved version is worth more because it is a one-of-a-kind piece whereas the molded cameos are mass-produced.
Molded cameos tend to be made from either glass or plastic and typically feature 1 or 2 colors that are swirled together. A molded piece will tend to be shiny and made from manmade materials. There are some instances where natural materials are molded to create a cameo but this is the exception—not the rule.
Plastic can be used to make high quality imitation shell cameos but the trained eye can spot a molded piece when you know what to look for. A molded piece will typically feature a roundness in the detail and definite lack of sharp or precise lines. To identify a glass cameo, look for the appearance of mold marks, dimples, or ridges on the back of the piece.
Carved cameos are indeed one-of-a-kind pieces that will almost always have greater value than their molded counterparts. The identifying features that distinguish a molded piece from a carved piece will vary according to the material used to make it. For instance, shell cameos are carved from a single piece of shell and will usually have two colors. To identify, a real shell cameo will have crisper lines and a thin concave back when compared to a plastic imitation. The only exception to the thin back will be cameos made from either mother of pearl or abalone which will be flat on the back and thicker—but still sharper and more detailed than the plastic pieces. Coral cameos will typically feature a single color and have a flat back.
Agate is another material that is carved to make high quality cameos. In fact, agate is actually a superior material to carve because the layers are clearly visible from the side and relatively flat so it is easier to produce the “two-tone” effect common to many cameo varieties.
Hard stone cameos are definitely more difficult to carve than shell, coral or agate—but they are typically worth more as well. To identify, the piece will be undercarved where the portrait meets the flat plaque. Now at first glance, it may appear that the stone is actually an “applied cameo”. But upon closer examination, you should be able to tell that it is stone by examining the junction between the portrait and flat plaque.
If you really want to get the best value for your money, be sure to know how to differentiate between molded and carved cameos. The most expensive cameos will be carved while some of the most eye-catching designs are molded. No matter which variety you choose, there is no doubt that a cameo is a timeless classic that will never go out of style.
Share ThisJon Kreps is a jewelry expert specializing in vintage cameos, indian jewelry, and authentic costume jewelry. To learn more about cameos or other vintage jewelry, visit http://www.vintagetemptations.com
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